The Magician Deftly Plies His Art: Henri Grandjean & Cie's Atrivm Sapphire Watches in Green and Red

Henri Grandjean, one of the masters of watchmaking revered for his exceptional marine chronometers, had indeed left an indelible imprint in the realm of Swiss chronometry. Only recently, there’s been a resurgence of his name by entrepreneur and avid collector, Sohail Aziz, positioning it as a brand independent on its own while stunningly specialising in high-end contemporary haute horlogerie.

The brand took the horological world by storm with the brilliant launch of the Magician. The triple-axis tourbillon, suspended delicately in the middle of the air, seemed inexplicably disconnected from the movement, a spectacular trick of elusive watchmaking.

The magician’s illusion is no magic but a meticulous study in design. The mechanism is ingeniously mounted on transparent sapphire crystal discs, freeing it from the reliance on metal bridges or pillars. The cages are strategically constructed with lightweight metals - magnesium, titanium and a blend of titanium and steel - so as not to weigh heavily on the power reserve and affect the watch’s accuracy.

Adding to the spectacle, the watch cases are now constructed from green or red sapphire crystal, debuting at Geneva Watch Days. The transparent cases offer an undisturbed path for light to traverse, melding visual boundaries that help subdue the imposing 45mm diameter and 16 mm thickness. The sapphire crystal, more than mimicking the weightless quality and respire of the tourbillon, elevates it. The watches, staying true to its roots, come with serenades of Grandjean’s 19th-century marine chronometer. The advent of Grand Feu enamel to the design transposes the watches into revered components of horology.

In addition to denoting time, the open chapter ring provides a multi-layered architectural spectacle replete with a date wheel. The 24-hour wheel is subtly placed below the top layer of the chapter ring, visualising the daytime and nighttime with a sun and moon medallion. The Magician Atrivm Sapphire watches, in their exquisite grandeur, reprieve the essence of the founder’s style, elegantly escorting a 19th-century chronograph to a contemporary landscape.