Calendar complications form an integral part of traditional watchmaking — a domain where information is presented via well-established formats evolved over ages. However, Roger Dubuis diverges from the norm, having adopted a distinct approach to calendar indications since its inception in 1995. The Swiss watchmaker is famed for its unique utilisation of the biretrograde system, a defining characteristic of its visual flair.
This novel approach is prominently displayed in one of their recent releases, the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar. Crafted to commemorate the brand’s 30th anniversary, the watch revisits Roger Dubuis’ primary signatures, notably the biretrograde display which was seen even in its earliest creations. The display, a result of a co-patented retrograde mechanism developed in late 1980s, enlivens the watch face with a practical and visually distinctive indication of the day and date.
Rekindling the ‘établissage’ system of late 18th-century watchmaking in the Vallée de Joux, Audemars Piguet has introduced the Atelier des Établisseurs. An exciting project, this initiative crafts new paths for the brand to create remarkable watches using time-honoured traditional crafts. As an enterprise, this project has dual purposes – fostering creativity and collaboration, while preserving indispensable artisanal proficiencies. The three remarkable creations unveiled during Watches & Wonders 2026 illustrate this collaborative spirit. The Atelier des Établisseurs is deeply inspired by the historic établissage system, which was a decentralised industry based on division of labour adopted by Swiss watchmakers.