Venturing Beyond the Face: Unveiling the Functionalities and Variations of Watch Bezels

Published: 14 Dec 2025
Watch bezels are often overlooked, yet add functionality beyond the dial. From divers to tachymeters, this exploration uncovers the history and purpose of various bezel types.

The bezel in a timepiece, often overlooked, serves more purposes than merely holding the crystal in place. It exhibits functionality that coordinates with the dial, adding value and utility to the watch. From providing depth information in diving watches to functioning as a compass, the bezel transforms the watch into a versatile wearable tool. There are numerous types of watch bezels, each having its unique functions and target users. The rotating diver’s bezel and 24-hour GMT bezels are common examples that immediately spring to mind. Among the fascinating parade of bezels, you’ll find rarities such as the Seiko Prospex’s rotating compass bezel and Pierre Kunz Spirit Diver’s depth gauge. Watches started featuring rotating bezels in 1937, initially seen in Rolex’s rare Zerographe. It had a 60-minute scale, aiding in chronograph functions. The evolution to diver-oriented bezels happened in the early 1950s, with Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms pioneering the first dive watch with a unidirectional rotating bezel necessary for diving. Using a diver’s bezel is a relatively straightforward process. Its primary purpose is to measure and track the duration spent underwater, thereby ensuring the diver’s safety. To be classified as a true dive watch, the watch must adhere to the ISO 6425 standard specifying minimum water resistance, legibility in the dark, and a unidirectional rotating bezel that only turns counterclockwise, minimizing chances of overestimating a diver’s available time underwater. Fully understanding the potential of your watch requires unravelling the enigma of functional bezels. Once you comprehend its purpose, using your timepiece becomes an absolute pleasure and utility, enabling its full potency beyond the ordinary sense of time.

More watch history